The early Z3 did not have an alarm as default from the factory. The early Z3 had an alarm fitted as a dealer option. My Z3 came with the EWS IIIG alarm. The IIIG alarm has a separate fob to control the alarm remotely. The alarm cannot be set by locking the car from the car doors. At some point in the past, the fob for the car was either lost or broken and no longer available to me. I can see that the alarm still seems to be active as it flashes when I stop the car and take out the key. It only flashes once and does not seem to be alarmed.
After months of searching around forums and eBay, someone posted a link to an eBay seller that had some IIIG fobs for sale. I quickly jumped on this and bought one.
After purchasing my Z3 1.9 back in October 2019 and having all the mechanical items sorted it was time to put the Z3 to bed for the winter as the weather was not up for me working on the car.
The winter was spent Googling, watching YouTube, talking on Z3 forums and basically working out how I was going to tackle the items that I had found needing attention on the car. As with any car of its age, the list of jobs to tackle was not a small one.
The main items needing attention were to replace the sills, fix the central locking and interior light not working, body work and refurbish the leather seats.
Sills were purchased from Sytners Sheffield, painted by a local body shop and fitted one weekend. The frame under the sills looked to be in good condition with some surface rust. The frame and back of sills were treated with wax oyl before the sills were fitted.
The issue with the central locking turned out to be a familiar issue with the Z3, a broken cable in the loom going from the boot. A bit of soldering later and the central locking works as expected. The interior light not coming on when the doors were opened turned out to be a simple fix too, the connection of the wire on to the light switch just needing a clean.
After a trip in February to the Leather Repair Company in Hull with the Eastern region we felt we had all the knowledge, and a repair kit, to refurb the leather seats. The transformation is astounding and well worth the effort. We re-dyed the leather whilst the seats were out of the car since the bushes on the seats needed to be changed to stop the seat moving back and forth. Changing the seat bushes turned out to be a much easier job than I thought it was going to be, just having to remember to count the number of turns for the runner.
Whilst the seats were out of the car, I took the opportunity to put my hand under the carpet. When I first got the car there were no rubbers on the hood that go above the door and the inside was soaked. The foam under the carpet on the passenger side was soaked in water and squeezing the foam caused a torrent of water to release. I pulled the carpets up as much as possible squeezed out as much water as possible and left to dry out. It took three days.
The body work required some attention on the front bumper and both rear arches. A couple of small rust spots on the arches turned out to go a bit further once sanding commenced. After some sanding, filling, sanding, primer, base and lacquer the car looks great. The body work still needs some attention and a good machine polish at some point. One thing I learnt from spraying the bodywork is that more base colour and lacquer is required. You’ll never get the same quality finish from a spray can as you would from the body shop but it looks presentable now at least.
My rear view mirror dropped off during the winter. I have tried various products to fix it back but none worked that well. Eventually I tried the Loctite 319. This stuff is awesome.
Remove the button from the mirror so that you are only glueing the small part and not the weight of the whole mirror.
Take the mesh that comes with the Loctite and cut it to the required size of the button.
Clean the window with some cleaning alcohol to remove any grease, etc
Clean the button with some cleaning alcohol to remove any grease, etc
Put the glue on the button
Place the cut down piece of mesh on to the glue and use the glue stick to make sure the mesh is covered
Place the button on to the window (making sure you have it properly oriented with a notch to the top) and hold the button in place and count slowly to 30.
The button should at this point be fairly secure. I then left it to set for about an hour. I then reattached the mirror to the button. Feels really firm and secure. I should also note that I waited until it was a warm sunny day so that there was no condensation or moisture on the windscreen and the windscreen was warm. This helps the glue work to its full effect.
My Z3 has a strange central locking issue that I need to look in to. When I use the key in either the passenger or drivers door it will operate the central locking for the doors. The boot does not lock or unlock if the key is used from the doors. If I use the key in the boot lid to unlock / lock the boot it also operates the doors. So, if I use the key in the door to unlock the door, both doors unlock but not the boot. If I lock the door from the door, both doors lock but not the boot. If I unlock the boot using the key in the boot, the boot will unlock and both doors will unlock. If I lock the boot from the boot lock, the boot will lock and both doors will lock. So, if I unlock the car from the boot and then lock the car from the doors, the boot will not be locked.
It appears that the signal from the central locking from the doors is not making it to the boot actuator. There is a known issue on the Z3 where the wiring loom that goes from the boot in to the car can sometimes contain broken cables. It could be that there is a broken cable in the loom. You can see examples of broken wires in the photos below (courtesy of @jonco on zroadster.org). Detailed below are the indvidual wires and there function.
As soon as lock down allows I will be out to the car to break open the wiring loom to see if any of my wires are broken and causing my issue. I will update the post with what I find.
I have documented here the details of what each wire is used for is noted below (courtesy of @jonco and @BrianH on zroadster.org)
There are 9 wires in the boot loom. The lock/unlock and switch position functions are controlled via the central ZKE module The two wires below are part of a common loom that triggers the door actuator/lock.
1.5 BL/GR blue/grey – boot lock motor wire
1.5 WS white – boot lock motor wire
The three wires below are supply wires and lock position wires, the supply is fed from fuse 7 (5amp)
UPDATE: I finally got around to opening up the loom and found that I had a blue wire that was broken. I stripped back the wire and soldered it back together and now the central locking works exactly as it is supposed to.