Installing BMW Scanner 1.4.0 on Windows 10

I keep seeing people requesting information on how to install BMW Scanner 1.4.0 on Windows 10. Here are the notes I took whilst I installed the software on Windows 10 Professional. The software installation was done on a fresh install of Windows 10 Professional. I first copied the scanner software from the CD to a folder on my desktop.

These instructions should also work for Windows 7 but I have not tried them on this Operating System.

Disclaimer: This procedure worked for my installation. It is not guaranteed to work for all laptops and all versions of Windows.

1.  Double-click on the set up program in the software folder.

2. When asked if you want to allow this software from an unknown publisher to update the computer. click the Yes button. The installation will start.

3. Take all the default options for the installation. If asked if you want to overwrite and files, click on Overwrite All. When prompted, take the option to install a shortcut on the desktop, and to auto-run the application after installation.

When the application starts you will see that the drivers are not installed.

4. Now we need to install the drivers.
Go to the install folder on the c:\ drive.
Go in to BMWScan140.
Go in to Drivers.
Select the file FTD2XX.inf (the one that says setup information) and right-click the mouse to bring up the context menu.
Press Install.

When asked if you want to allow the program to modify the computer. Press Yes. The drivers will start to install.

During the installation you will be notified that the system cannot verify the publisher.

Press on Install this driver software anyway
5. The drivers are installed and the software now shows the drivers installed when you run it

6. Plug the laptop in to the car and start the software. The software should connect to the car and allow you to scan and update the system.

The items noted below I did not need to do for my installation of Windows 10 Professional but are included to give you some pointers for troubleshooting.

  • On a previous installation of Windows 10 I needed to find a registry hack to allow uncertified drivers to be installed. This was a while ago so I don’t have the link. Try searching for “how to install drivers from an unknown publisher”. (always take care when editing the registry)
  • On 64-bit installations you may find you need to install the 64-bit drivers. The drivers are available in the install folder where you run the initial setup program from.

    Go in to the 64 bit drivers folder, locate the Setup Information files, right-click on these and choose the Install option from the menu.

  • You may also find you need to change the configuration for the COM serial port. You can do this in Device Manager, look for the serial port driver and use the configure options. You can change the assigned COM port and other things like the latency.  NOTE: You won’t see the serial port in Device Manager unless the laptop is plugged in to the car.

I hope that this post helps you to get the software working. Please do let me know if this gets you going. If you have issues, try Googling (that’s what I do) or you can post a comment and I will try and help. I can’t give any guarantees to be able to get things working for you but can sometimes help to communicate.

 

 

 

Refurbish Wiper Arms

The wiper arms on the E52 were looking a bit worse for wear. The black had gone very pale and in some places had come off altogether and there were rust patches. It was time for a refurb.

I used a 17mm spanner to remove the bolts holding the arms on and a battery terminal puller to extract the arms off the spindles.

Using sandpaper and spray that I already had in the cellar I set to work.

Sanded down the arms with 250 grit followed by 1500 grit to remove the worst of the rust and to smooth where the original paint had peeled. I then used three coats of grey etch primer followed by two coats of matt black.

I waited at least five minutes between each coat of paint and then left the arms for 24-hours to dry before fitting back on the car.

The end result is astounding and makes such a difference.

The Before
The After

 

 

 

Coding Using BMW Scanner 1.4.0

I’ve been thinking for a while about what to write about next and then it hit me, what have I been doing a lot of lately with the E53 X5 and before that the E39 530i, I have been playing with different coding options. I have also done some coding for other people at various meets.

I started off when I got the E39 buying the software and cable from http://www.cable-shack.co.uk/ as I wanted to be able to program the remote central locking to make a sound when locking and unlocking the car.

The cable shack software was OK and I got the INPA software to connect to the car and I took a look at NCS expert but couldn’t get my head around it. Coding with NCS is not for the faint-hearted. All the messages are in German, you have to know what modules you have available and where things are to export the current settings, modify them in a text file and then import them back in to the car again. This was all a little too complicated for me. I do still use INPA for testing PDC.

BMW Scanner is much simpler to use for coding. You simply pick the module you want to look at from the list presented, go in to the coding section, change the options you want and write them away. Job done.

For more details on BMW Scanner, visit http://bmw-scanner.com/

You can purchase BMW Scanner from a popular trading site by simply searching for “BMW Scanner”.  For my E39 and E53 I use BMW Scanner version 1.4.0

One thing that is asked a lot on the many group pages is whether BMW Scanner can run on Windows 10. The simple answer is Yes. I have this running on Windows 10 Professional. There is a registry hack to allow the drivers to be installed but after that it installs and works as well as it does on Windows XP or Windows 7.

As an example of how easy BMW Scanner is to use I will make the most frequently requested coding change, to have the indicators act as sidelights. Most people think that this is the Daytime Running Lights option but it isn’t.

Coding the Turn Signals as Sidelights Using BMW Scanner

When you first start BMW Scanner it will interrogate the car and provide you with a list of details about the car. This can be turned off in the settings if you don’t want this to happen every time you start the application but I like to keep it on so that I know the software is communicating with the car.

You will be presented with a list of all the possible modules. At this point you can perform a scan which will go through all the modules and tell you if they are present or not and will show you if there are any errors reported by the module.

Double-click on the errors column to see what errors are currently known by the car and be able to clear them.

To code a module, double-click on the name of the module.

The screen for the module will be shown. We want to double-click on the Light Check Module.

Click on the Coding Data Button. The screen of coding options for the module will be displayed.

Here you can tick and untick the options that you want to code.

To have the indicators act as sidelight, place a tick in the Front Turn Signals as Side Lights option and click on the Write button. Now when you put on the side lights the indicators will also illuminate.

It’s as simple as that. All point and click.

I have heard that Carly BMW which runs on your mobile phone is also able to perform coding and various other functions. I do keep having a look at this but the price for the software and being required to use their Bluetooth adapter makes this option a little too pricey for me based on the feedback I have seen on the Android Store. I have used the lite version with the cable shack cable and this was able to talk to the car but with the lite version you can’t actually do anything useful.

 

 

 

X5 Progress Report

So it’s been a few weeks now since I took ownership of the E53 X5. It’s been a busy time with travel for work and so I have not been able to get as much done as I had hoped. The car has been in the local garage a couple of times but has so far not had much done on it due to them being busy , holidays, etc.

Here’s what has been done so far:

  • The pixels in the dash have been fixed. This has allowed us to see the messages that were being displayed. This was Check Park Light and Check Reverse Light. After playing a little with the connections these have now stopped being displayed.
  • I knew the car needed a new front passenger tyre, ended up that it needed all four new boots.
  • The car has now had a service.
  • The steering wheel has been adjusted to that it is now straight. It’s amazing how annoying it is if the steering wheel is off, even by just a small amount.
  • No matter how much I tried to get the keys working, the one key to start the car and both keys to operate the remote central locking, I just couldn’t get them to work. I took the car down to Newhall BMW in Sheffield and the guys there were nice enough to plug in their computer and looked to see if they could get the keys working. They came to the same conclusion as me, the key is kaput. I went to Sytners and ordered a new key, two days later I have a new key that will start the car and will operate the remote central locking.
  • I have replaced the two tailgate lights. I did clean up the passenger side but I also managed to break it in the process. The drivers side has a crack in the reverse lens. I quick online chat with Quarry Motors in Sheffield and two replacement lights were on the way. These are really easy to replace with only three screws holding each in place. Remove the top plastic cover on the tailgate and then the inside plastic trim and the lights are easily accessible.
  • Plugged in the MID to try and get the BC to display messages in the instrument cluster. According to the manual this should be possible by pressing the BC button on the end of the stalk until the display shows PROG. Unfortunately I can’t get it to display PROG. I tried using INPA to program the display but no joy there either. All I want is to have the current time displayed in the cluster on the message line.

So what is left to do:

  • The drivers door actuator will be replaced this coming week at Newhall BMW(http://newhallsheffield.com/)
  • EML Light, Engine running lean on banks one and two. Hoping this is just a split pipe. Not spotted anything obvious under the bonnet.
  • Lights coming on now and again for the DSC and brakes. Looks like a wheel sensor. Shouldn’t be much to resolve.
  • Car does not get up to temperature. Thinking this is a stuck thermometer.
  • Handbrake replacement. The teeth are all worn and needs adjustment.

The car is back in the local garage again this week to have these remaining items looked at.

Looking forward to finally getting these last few things sorted and then the next thing is to look at the bodywork. The body work is not in to bad a condition (apart from the small dent in the tailgate I put in it last week after reversing in to a skip). Needs a good clean, clay, polish and wax. The thing now is finding the time at the weekends when it is not raining or blustery.

I am really enjoying playing with the X5 but I think the poor E39 is feeling a bit left out recently.

Headlight / Tail light refurb instructions

Here are some notes on how to refurb your headlights or tail lights.

Pre-requisites

  • Ensure that the lights have been washed and dried
  • Mask off all the area around the lights to avoid the sanding and polishing going on to the bodywork around the lights
  • Use sanding pads on a fast drill or polisher

Step-by-step

  1. Using a P800 sandpaper, use medium pressure and move side to side and up and down to remove the worst of the scratches. Periodically dust off the lens and the paper to ease the sanding. When finished, the lens should look a little milky. Check all the defects have been removed and then move on to the next stage.
  2. Next use a P1500 in the same manner, at the end, the lens should look more translucent but still a little milky.
  3. Move on to a P2000 and with a little water on the lens and pad continue in the same manner. Avoid the lens becoming dry. By the end the lens should look a  little cloudy.
  4. Next move on to a P3000 and again with a little water and the same movements. Avoid the lens becoming dry. By the end the lens should look more translucent.
  5. The final stage is to polish the lens until it is clear. Use a polishing pad and compound. Apply the compound to the pad and then dab it on to the lens before switching on the drill. This is to avoid compound being thrown all over. Add more compound as needed. Keep polishing until the lens is clear. Wipe down the lens periodically to check. If there are still defects, go back to the P3000 stage.